2024 By Farr Irrewarra Chardonnay 750ml

A deliciously mineral and slippery drink. An array of citrus and complexity lined with a fantastic backbone of acidity. Perhaps a bottle to be consumed by yourself.

This is a special vineyard project located in the heart of the Western District Farming country, approximately 150km south-west of Melbourne.

Irrewarra is surrounded by in land lakes and volcanic plains and with this diverse and beautiful landscape, the vines relies on a high amount of natural rainfall throughout the year as the Western plains are quite exposed to the elements, which contributes to the vineyard sites mystic.

It is a site that truly reflects the complexities and varietal characters of the vines that are planted in this cool climate region. The vineyard was planted by the Calvert family in 2001 to a mixture of clones on own roots. It is predominantly Pinot Noir with 6 acres and accompanied by 2 acres of Chardonnay. The vineyard sits at the top of the slope facing large water reserves ‘Salt Lake’ and the ‘Calvert Lough’ to the north. Now managed by the Farr team, Nick Farr takes just as much care in these vineyards as he does in his Geelong estate.

I had to check the notes for the previous release to make sure I wasn’t indulging in hyperbole two years in a row. The 2024 Irrewarra Chardonnay is brilliant. Lovely white gold in the glass the palate cool from the fridge yet immediately giving. It has a softness that defers to finer notes of acidity, ripe citrus and barley sugar; delicate honey and creaminess. In a world where making everyone happy is next to impossible, this wine, in my opinion goes as close to universal appeal as it can. Generosity combined with finesse, flavour and restraint. It may seem contradictory, but this is a wine in which you see that conflict play out in the glass. It’s very, very delicious. As always, the big problem will be getting enough to drink and also keep some in the cellar. I found myself glugging rather than sipping, as it is such a pleasure to drink. Ben Knight